VICTORIA, BC: Magnolia Hotel & Spa – Classically elegant and convenient

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Visiting Victoria over theCanada Day weekend, my wife and I checked into a delightful boutique hotelclose to the Inner Harbour and discovered what may well be the city’s hiddengem.
The Magnolia Hotel & Spais a 64-room boutique hotel in our favourite type of location: convenient tothe action, but not right in the middle of it. It’s tucked away on CourtneyStreet, just a block east of busy Government Street and a block north of thevenerable Empress Hotel.
Despite being close to thecity’s active core, the atmosphere at the Magnolia is tranquil and relaxed.
The Magnolia has the feel ofa vintage property that has been scrupulously kept up to date, so guests may besurprised to learn it’s actually only 14 years old. During a tour of theproperty, sales manager Ronette Nyhan told us that the hotel’s local developersbuilt it specifically to fit in with the style of the older structures thatsurround it. As a result, guests enjoy the best of both worlds: old-world charmand 21^st century conveniences.
Entering the lobby, we weregreeted immediately by one of the bellmen. The front desk attendant was helpinganother guest so the bellman began our check-in process – an indication of themarvelous service proffered at the Magnolia. 

When Alana took over and finishedour check-in, we found her to be everything you’d expect at a hotel with afour-diamond AAA/CAA rating: courteous, efficient, polished, and helpful.  As we had arrived well before check-in time,she gladly stored our bags, provided us with a map and an umbrella (it wasthreatening to rain and we’d neglected to pack our own), and noted my cellphone number so she could call when the room was ready.
The mahogany-paneled lobbywith its comfortable seating area, cozy fireplace, and beverages and snacks(available 24 hours a day) would have made a great place to while away sometime, but we were peckish and keen to tuck into a bit of lunch, so we headedoff for Don Mee’s in Chinatown for its renowned dim sum.
We had booked the “Fire andIce” package, which included a room with a fireplace and a bottle of bubbles onice. When we returned we were given a room on the 7^th and highestfloor, facing the Inner Harbour. Rooms on the 6^th and 7^thfloors all have gas fireplaces; rooms on lower floors do not. Rooms on the topfloor also offer 10-foot ceilings, which add to the feeling of spaciousness.
A bottle of Segura Viudascava, a sparkling wine from Spain, waiting on ice completed our package. Allguests are treated to complimentary bottled water, fresh fruit, and localchocolates upon arrival and more chocolates upon evening turndown service.
Rooms at the Magnolia rangein size from 300 to nearly 400 square feet and include two Signature Diamondrooms. Located on its top two floors, these rooms offer the postcard view ofVictoria’s Inner Harbour and the green-domed British Columbia Parliamentbuildings seen at right.
Typical of luxury hotels,each room at the Magnolia has a comfortable bed, dresser, flat screen TV, ironand ironing board, desk with both wired and wireless Internet access, andin-room safe.  Atypical of many hotels,the Magnolia has robes – and slippers! – waiting for each guest; a very nicetouch indeed.
Rooms at the Magnolia alsooffer the increasingly rare in-room minibars. Somewhat surprisingly given theluxurious surroundings, I found the prices quite reasonable.  A package of smoked almonds was only $2, anda bottle of white wine was only about 50% higher than the price at a nearbyretail shop, as opposed to the more typical 100% markup found in many hotels.
The bathrooms areluxuriously appointed with soaking tubs, separate showers, and a wide array ofAveda amenities including a razor and shaving cream, and a vanity kit, in additionto the usual shampoo, conditioner, and lotion.
A deluxe continentalbreakfast is included for all guests and has a fairly broad variety of fooditems, from the typical cereals, fruit, yogurt, and waffles to the moreEuropean offerings of cold meats, cheeses, and hard-boiled eggs.
Breakfast is served in thePrime Steakhouse adjacent to the lobby. The restaurant, which was listed as oneof “Canada’s Best New Restaurants of 2010,” is open for lunch Monday throughSaturday and dinner nightly.
Guests have numerous diningoptions nearby as well. They can pop across Gordon Street to the Bon Rouge Bistro, kitty-corner to the Sandwich Corner Café, easily walk to any of dozensof restaurants and pubs lining Government Street, or even trek to the city’s Chinatownon Fisgard Street, about a kilometre to the north.
Spa Magnolia, also adjacentto the lobby, offers facials, hand and foot care, body treatments, and spapackages for both men and women. The hotel also offers a well-equipped fitnesscenter (at left), and offers access to the swimming pool at the nearby YMCA for thoseseeking a swim. 

Valet parking is availablefor $20 per night.
While every staff member weencountered was polite and friendly, a few of the younger staff members lackedthe polish I expect at a high-end hotel. One of the breakfast servers referredto a group of guests as “you guys” instead of “folks” or “ladies” or“gentlemen.” I also heard “No problem!” more than once instead of the preferredresponses of “You’re welcome” or “My pleasure.”
In another instance, one ofthe housekeeping staff pushed a rather large linen cart into the elevator inwhich my wife and I were already riding. In keeping with the hotel's upscale service, she should have either asked if we minded if she joined us, ordeferred to her guests and waited for the next elevator.
The Magnolia is thedevelopers’ only hotel and, we’re told, their passion. As a result, the hotelis planning a “refresh” later this year, though in my estimation it's hardly needed. However, that refresh -- along with ensuring that staff members consistently exhibit polish and refinement -- could help the hotel earn its fifth diamond, whichAAA/CAA describe as representing “the ultimate in luxury andsophistication.” 
We thoroughly enjoyed ourstay, will definitely go back, and are especially looking forward to areturn visit after the refresh is complete.
Whether you find yourself inVictoria sooner or later, my wife and I both highly recommend the MagnoliaHotel & Spa.

Photos by Carl Dombek
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ANA begins non-stop service from Seattle to Tokyo

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Travelers from Seattle to Japan now have a third airlineto choose from when flying non-stop to Tokyo’s Narita Airport. ANA, thego-to-market name for All Nippon Airways, commenced service July 25.
Previously, only Delta and United operated non-stops fromSeattle to Tokyo (SEA-TYO).
ANA flights leave SeaTac at 1:09 p.m. and arrive inTokyo at 3:10 p.m. local time the next day, as the flights cross theinternational date line.  Return flightsleave at 4:55 p.m. local time, arriving in Seattle at 9:37 a.m. on the same daythe flight departed, again owing to crossing the international date line.
As of  July 21, an economy ticket for flightsleaving August 10 and returning August 17 could be purchased for as low as$2,425.50, while the lowest Business Class round trip ticket is $7,650.50, andFirst Class seats are available for as low as $9,250.50.  At those prices, all classes of ticket haverestrictions; unrestricted fares are, of course, higher.
Coach fares are approximately double the price available onDelta, either through the airline’s own website or through Travelocity. Movingto Business Class, however, the gap narrows, with at least one Delta businessfare available on the same travel dates for $6,533.10.
But then, you get what you pay for.
While I can’t remember when my last Delta flight was, I canremember being distinctly unimpressed. And I’ve been pretty outspoken in mycriticisms of United, which sadly have not been abated by their merger withContinental.
ANA, on the other hand, has an excellent reputation in thetravel industry (as do many non-U.S. carriers) and boasts of a number ofawards, including being named Best Transpacific Airline in 2012 by the airlinereview web site SKYTRAX.
Although passengers will ride in a 777 for the first few months, ANA will replace the triple-7 with a 787, Boeing’s newDreamliner that is winning accolades from its passengers, some time in the fall. ANA was the firstairline to take delivery of the Dreamliner and is currently operating 10according to the latest Boeing data. The only other airline to have takendelivery of the 787 is Japan Airlines, which has taken delivery of four todate. Accordingly, passengers who choose to fly to Tokyo on Delta or United canbe assured they’ll be riding older aircraft.
Beyond that, both U.S. airlines have recently beencriticized for their lack of customer service as well as the state of theiraircraft.
In my recent post “Actuallyusing those frequent flier miles,” I cited a survey that showed Delta atthe bottom of the heap when passengers tried to use their accumulated miles.
Seattle Times travel writer Carol Pucci was also recently criticalof the airline, writing on May 26 that Delta’s taking over of Air France'sdaily Seattle-to-Paris daily nonstop provided passengers with “the travelequivalent of a stale baguette.”  Infairness, Pucci later reported that Delta will be replacing the aging 767-300it now flies on that route with a newer model 767 by January 2013.
Even with all else equal, I still recommend flying anairline operated by the country for which you’re headed. That way, you beginexperiencing some of the flavor of your destination as soon as you board theaircraft rather than waiting until after you’ve cleared customs upon arrival.
Bon voyage!

Travel bargains abound

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Whether you want to blame the economy or give credit to the Internet, there's no denying there are more travel bargains to be found now than ever before.

You've seen them: an e-mail from a cruise line, an airline, TripAdvisor's SNIQUEaway, or any of hundreds of sources offering last-minute bargains.  Well, here are a few more.

Dwellable.com, a web site featuring non-hotel vacation rentals, is offering last-minute deals to Lake Tahoe, the Oregon Coast, Colorado, and the Myrtle Beach, North Carolina area.

If you have the cash and the flexibility to drop it all and go, why not?

Myrtle Beach on Dwellable

More Viking longships on the way

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VikingRiver Cruises has placed an order for two additional Viking Longships to be delivered in 2013.
The Viking Jarl and Viking Atla, each 443 feet long, will accommodate190 guests in 95 staterooms. The ships bring to 14the number of new Viking Longships launched over a two-year period.
"Asthe fastest-growing segment of travel, river cruising is inspiring morevacation plans than ever before," Torstein Hagen, chairman of Viking RiverCruises, said in a statement, noting that the company has received verypositive response to its new ships and so it is continuing its expansion to meetgrowing demand.
VikingLongships employ design, technology, and amenities that reflect guestpreferences and current travel trends, the company said.
Thenew ships include two Explorer Suites, which Viking calls “the largest rivercruise suites in Europe.” At 445 square feet, they are definitely generous,eclipsing even many land-based hotel rooms. Each suite features a separateliving room, bedroom and private wraparound veranda, and offers a 270-degreeview.
The shipsalso include seven two-room Veranda Suites with a full-size veranda in theliving room and a French balcony in the bedroom, 39 Veranda Staterooms withfull-size verandas, and 22 French Balcony Staterooms.
The indoor/outdoor Aquavit Terrace allows guests to experience a panoramic view of the riverscape in any type of weather, thanks to retractable floor-to-ceiling glass doors, which also allow guests to dine al fresco when weather permits, according to thecompany.
Thenew ships will feature luxury in-cabin amenities that include heated bathroomfloors and mirrors, Sony HD TVs, and premium bath products.
Sustainabilityupgrades include solar panels, an on-board organic herb garden, andenergy-efficient hybrid engines that also reduce vibrations and provide asmoother ride than conventional engines.
Theships are scheduled to sail four of Viking's most popular European itineraries.More details are available at VikingRiverCruises.com.

PORTLAND, OR: Hilton Portland

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I’ve stayed at the Hilton in downtown Portland several times over the past couple of years. Because of my HiltonHHonors Diamond status, I’d always been upgraded to the Executive Tower and had never stayed in the main hotel until recently. The difference was dramatic.

The Hilton Portland & Executive Tower consists of two different buildings managed as one hotel, with the same team members and managers responsible for both hotels.

As a loyal Hilton fan and, in the interest of full disclosure, a former Hilton team member, it gives me no pleasure to write this review. However, my pledge is to “call 'em as I see 'em.”

The Executive Tower, on the northeast corner of 6th and Taylor, is upscale and refined offering large, light, airy open spaces, and well-kept guest rooms. The Hilton Portland on the southwest corner is obviously an older building than its counterpart and currently showing its age.

The lobby, a guest’s first impression, is done in dark woods, obviously intended to contribute to a feeling of elegance and coziness. In some areas that works well, but this is Portland. Dark interiors can feel claustrophobic when sunlight is in short supply. Dark woods coupled with low ceilings also made the restaurant and bar, just off the lobby, seem cramped and less than inviting.
 
Halls and guest rooms need updating

The halls leading to the guest rooms are tired, with carpet that is fussy and outdated. Doors to the guest rooms are unadorned, painted steel portals that look quite industrial; not at all what one expects in a Hilton. The guest room décor is well maintained but is standard hotel fare.

Even luxurious furnishings, however, would not make up for the lack of space. The living area of my guest room was smaller than any room in which I’d stayed at the Executive Tower, and the bathroom fixtures were such a tight fit that the toilet had to be set on an angle. It didn’t affect its functionality, but it made the whole room seem even smaller.

Because it’s Portland, air conditioners aren’t needed very often, but they were during my stay, and the one in my room was unusually loud, making it difficult to get a good night’s sleep.

The rooms do have the usual amenities: flat-screen TV (with some music channels designated), desk and workspace, wireless Internet access ($9.95 per day; complimentary if you’re a Gold or Diamond HiltonHHonors member), in-room safe, hair dryer, iron and ironing board, coffee maker, and Peter Allen Roth toiletries.

Service needs improvement

In the hospitality industry, service is key. Excellent service will often make up for less-than-ideal surroundings, at least in part, while poor service can taint one’s experience at even the best property.

Many of the staff members I encountered at the Hilton Portland failed to live up to the Hilton service standards. At almost every Hilton at which I've stayed, every team member smiles, makes eye contact, and greets their guests whenever their paths cross. Many times, though not always, staff members at the Hilton Portland passed their guests in the hall or joined them in the elevator without so much as acknowledging their presence. That is not the way to make guests feel welcome.

Housekeeping needs to pay better attention to detail.

Stepping off the elevator when I arrived, I noticed lots of fingerprints, handprints, nose prints, and worse on the windows and mirror of the 18th floor elevator lobby. It was the weekend and a fair number of kids were in the hotel, so I didn’t think much of it at the time. However, those smudges and more were still there when I left four days later; they’d never been cleaned. Housekeeping was in that area every day; cleaning the windows and mirrors should be part of their regular routine.

Upon checking into my room, I saw that the housekeeper had missed several chunks of pretzel the previous guest apparently dropped right in the middle of the living area. The pieces were so obvious that it made me wonder whether the room had been vacuumed at all.

Wine glasses and room service trays that were sitting outside a nearby room on the evening I arrived were still there the next morning, more than 12 hours later. A housekeeping cart was parked in the hall next to a guest room for an entire day. Because there were no housekeepers in sight and no rooms being serviced, it made the hall feel like a storage closet.

After I returned home, I contacted the hotel’s general manager to discuss my concerns. He said he “completely agreed” with my assessment of the guest rooms’ condition, and told me the hotel was in the process of finalizing a $10 million guest room renovation design, which will commence this fall.

Depending on the extent of the renovations they’re planning, even the space issues could be remedied. Boston’s Colonnade Hotel underwent a $20 million renovation in late 2007 that included taking every room down to the foundation and rebuilding them to include new walls, ceilings, electrical, and windows.

The G-M was also quite concerned about the “less than gracious hospitality” I received during my stay and apologized, saying “The Hilton Portland and Hilton Worldwide pride ourselves in providing the highest level of guest service and I truly regret we failed to demonstrate this to you during your stay.”

Given his responsiveness to my inquiries, I expect that the staff issues have already been addressed, but the room renovation is still several months away.

If you’re considering the Hilton Portland & Executive Tower, I would recommend the Executive Tower until after the fall room refurbishment is complete.

Photos by Carl Dombek
Click on photos to view larger images